Northbound and Down do Europe – Molini di Triora

The drive to Molini de Triora was hair-raising. Following a pixelated google map on an Ipad we opted for the “shorter” drive over the mountain rather than taking the motorway down to the coast and then heading inland again. Big mistake! The estimated 15-20 min drive ended up as an hour and a half of tight winding roads with rocky outcrops threatening to rip off the side of the caravan. I was very glad we had opted for the extra insurance as things could have gone very wrong. Luckily we had chosen to do this drive in the morning so we could see what was going on and we could also enjoy the amazing views that the area had to offer. The quiet mountain villages that we passed on the way were hidden away in valleys far from modern city life and I could picture myself living there in my old age enjoying the warm weather and serenity.

Riviera Freeride is a mountainbiking shuttle service based in Molini de Triora started by a man called Ady who left the UK in search of amazing tracks and business opportunity. 6 years later and Ady has become an Italian speaking local and is managing a well-run mountain bike retreat. He rides his bike almost every day guiding friends and visitors on the endless number of incredible tracks that can be found in the area, with the help of his local knowledge. Rich works with Ady for Riviere freeride helping out with the guiding and making sure everybody has a great time. We met both Ady and Rich that morning when we arrived in Molini who explained that we would be driving 45 minutes to Diano Marina on the coast because hunting season had begun and Sundays and Wednesdays were the hunting days in Molini.

The uplift van and trailer system was very quick and efficient. After winding our way up the shuttle road which would be near impossible to find back without a guide, we reached the top of the day’s first decent “Into the blue”. The reason for this name became apparent after the first couple of corners and a big, rocky roll-in. Out of the trees and on the run up to a fly-off the scenery around me exploded blue. The fly-off had a blind landing and was set against a background of blue sea that merged with the blue sky, hence the name. It really was a sight to behold. This view enhanced the epic trail we were riding that wound its way down a dusty and rocky track back down to the sea.

This track and a couple of others were uplifted all day with a break for lunch down at the local café. Although it was cheap, the authentic Italian food served was delicious. The tracks on the coast here weren’t very long but had good uplift routes and were rocky and technical although a different type of riding to the Alps entirely. After the days riding we went for a quick dip in the sea, ate a delicious Italian pizza and then headed back to Molini de Triora for day number 2 with Riviera Freeride.

We stayed local on the second day in Molini de Triora, riding tracks that finished in the village. The first ride of the day started above the treeline giving us an amazing view of the valleys and villages built into the mountainside. The track was an old forgotten access path 100’s of years old that followed the contours of the mountainside and slowly wound its way down through a little village with a maze of archways and narrow alleyways. It seemed to be endless with a constant high speed flow that sharpened our senses for the tracks that were to come.

The track “Fantasy” followed as we plunged into a dreamland of fast singletrack with technical rock gardens and gullies that made you feel as if you were on a bobsled feeling the g-forces as you leaned over from side to side. The dry pine forest floor meant that you accelerated as soon as you came off the brakes. I was glad I was following Rich because with a guide that quick you were challenged into keeping up as he flew down the tracks dodging trees and rocks as if he knew them like the back of his hand.

Another delicious meal with breads, meats and salads all of local produce gave you a taste of the area and led me to the conclusion that not only was I riding amazing tracks in the Maritime Alps, I was getting an up close view of the culture that survives in these secluded mountains.

Our stay here was over and with great regret we would have to continue are journey. So with a massive thank you to Ady, Rich and all the other guys staying with Riviera Freeride we drove west continuing our camper-van adventure.

There were not many days remaining on our road trip and we had not yet done any surfing so we headed to San Sebastian on the west coast of Spain for some amazing surfing and topless beatches. Then down into Portugal where we had another day surfing just outside of Sintra near Lisbon before drinks in the banging nightlife of Lisbon. Thomas’ flight went the next day, however I had one more day which I chose to spend with some old riding friends I had met 6 years ago on my first visit to Portugal. We uplifted the amazing tracks on Sintra mountain which again were different from anything else we’d ridden on the trip. The day’s final run went from the very top of the mountain down to the beach where I had my last swim of the roadtrip. A perfect end to an amazing 2 and half weeks!